Part I: Introduction to Yosemite

 

 

Here are some facts about Nipomo and Yosemite for you to compare and contrast.Nipomo's elevation is 320 feet above sea level. Yosemite Valley is 4,000 feet above sea level.Nipomo's average annual precipitation is about 12 inches. Yosemite's average annual precipitation is about 37 inches.Nipomo's average daily temperatures in the winter range from 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, with a low of 20 degrees. Yosemite's average daily temperatures in the winter range from 20 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, with a low of -6 degrees.Nipomo covers approximately 36 square miles. Yosemite covers approximately 1,200 square miles.Both have coyotes, ravens, raccoons, and bears.

Question 1: How much more precipitation does Yosemite get than Nipomo?

Question 2: Why do you think Yosemite gets more precipitation than Nipomo?

Question 3: What is the difference in elevation between Nipomo and Yosemite?

This is Tunnel View! This is the first big view of the Yosemite Valley that you get while entering the park. There is a nice pullout and you will be able to take pictures. El Capitan is on the left. Half Dome is in the very center at the end of the valley. On the right are the three Cathedral Rocks, Bridalveil Falls, and the Leaning Tower. Most of the trees you see on the valley floor didn't exist 100 years ago. They have slowly filled in the meadow that was once a lake that covered the bottom of Yosemite Valley. Try to imagine the huge, icy glaciers that filled this valley. They were over a 1,000 feet thick and weighed millions of tons. That's a lot of ice! Yosemite of today is an example of a U-shaped valley. It was once a V-shaped valley, where a fast-moving river cut away at the sides and caused a lot of erosion. During the last Ice Age, the valley filled up with glaciers and they cut away at the sides even more and changed the V-shaped valley into a U-shaped valley. The ice eventually melted and a lake remained, dammed up by a moraine at the west end of the valley (below Bridalveil Falls).

Few places in the world can compare to Yosemite. It contains four of the 10 highest waterfalls in the world. The granite face of El Capitan is one of the sheerest and highest on the planet; over 3,200 feet high. Yosemite was the first wild land protected by Congress. It was established as a National Park in 1890, the second in the United States. Its diverse habitats support a wide variety of animals. There are six native fish species, 29 species of amphibians and reptiles, 240 species of birds, and 77 species of mammals.The Ahwahnichi were the first people to live in the valley. Ahwahnee means "place like a gaping mouth" so the Ahwahnichi were "the people of the gaping mouth." They lived off of seeds, berries, nuts, mushrooms, birds, fish, and small animals. They set fires to keep the trees from growing in the meadows so they could hunt more easily. It also helped improve acorn germination. It is hard to imagine, but the majority of the trees growing in the valley 100 years ago were Black Oaks. Ninety percent of the Black Oaks have since disappeared and the meadows have declined by 59 percent. The Ahwahnichi migrated to the lower elevations when it got too cold. They would also travel and trade things like Black Oak acorns, baskets, berries, and shell beads with the Mono Lake Paiute. The Paiutes, in exchange, would trade obsidian, salt, rabbit blankets, pine nuts, and fly maggots.The discovery of gold in 1845 changed their peaceful life forever. Miners flooded the mountains searching for gold. They displaced the Indians from their homeland. Many miners shot Indians on sight. Extermination was a government approved policy. Chief Tenaya and the last of the Ahwahnichi were removed from the valley. He was the last chief and his three sons were murdered.In 1855, 48 people visited Yosemite. Today, close to 4 million visitors flocked to the valley.

Question 4: How do you think people have affected Yosemite? How has our presence in the valley changed it? Discuss at least three ways.

From Glacier Point, you can see Half Dome (left) and the "Little Yosemite Valley" to the right. In this little valley, you can see Vernal Falls and the larger Nevada Falls. In the blue distance you can see the Sierra Nevada, Sierra means saw-toothed mountain range and Nevada means snow-covered. The Sierra Nevada is more than 400 miles from end to end and is the longest continuous mountain range in the United States. It is primarily made up of granite. Metamorphic rock used to cover all of the granite, but it was eroded away. Only 5 percent of the rock in Yosemite is metamorphic.

El Capitan is the largest unbroken piece of granite in the world. It rises 3,400 feet above the valley floor and is the best place to watch rock climbers in the park. The dark formation in the middle of the photo is called a dike, an intrusion of molten rock that filled in the gaps in the granite at a later date and then solidified. It roughly resembles a map of North America. Climbers call this section of El Capitan the North American Wall. Climbers usually take 3-5 days to climb this huge cliff. The first person to free climb it (free climb= not using aid, so not pulling on anything man-made, but still using a rope for protection) in one day was a woman by the name of Lynn Hill. The guys were all very jealous. They had been trying to free climb it for years and years.

Question 5: What is a dike?

How Yosemite Valley was formed25 million years ago: Rolling hills and valleys covered the current Yosemite area; the Merced River flowed through a shallow valley.25 to 10 million years ago: The mountains were pushed up higher from an increase in activity below the earth's surface, causing the Merced River to dig deeper (erode) into its valley.10 - 2 million years ago:The land continued to push up, the water continued to erode down. The V-shaped valley got deeper. 2 million years ago:An ice age occurred. Glaciers from the highest parts of the Sierra Nevada grew so big that they flowed down through Yosemite Valley, widening and cutting the Merced river's path. 20,000 years ago:The glaciers melted out of Yosemite Valley. 10,000 years ago:The glaciers melted and created Lake Yosemite, which filled the Valley. But the Merced River and small creeks were filling the lake with Today:The sediment eventually filled Lake Yosemite and turned it into the meadows and forests of today.

Question 6: When were there glaciers in Yosemite Valley?

People often ask "Where is the other half of Half Dome?" The answer is... there never was one. Frost wedging caused layers of the granite to exfoliate and fall off. Its shape is the result of water being trapped in the vertical cracks. When it got cold, the water would freeze, expand, and eventually enlarge. With the constant pull of gravity, the layers of rock ultimately broke loose and fell to the glacier below. They were then carried off by the glacier, ground up, and redeposited.

Upper Yosemite Falls is 1,430 feet high. It is the second largest in the valley. Its source is Yosemite Creek. In the winter, a huge cone of ice will form at the bottom of the falls. There are two more waterfalls directly below, called Middle Cascade and Lower Yosemite Falls. You can see the Lost Arrow to the right of the waterfall (the pointy rock). This photo was taken during the spring, when the large snowfields in the High Sierra begin to melt in the hotter temperatures. You will probably not see this much water flowing from Yosemite Falls in the winter.

Question 7: Why does the amount of water in Yosemite Falls diminish during the winter?

The middle "waterfall" of Yosemite Falls is actually a "cascade", a series of little waterfalls 355 feet in height. They lead to Lower Yosemite Falls (lower right corner of the photo). The lower falls are 320 feet high. This photo is taken from "Oh My Gosh! Rock". It is a strenuous hike uphill but gives one of the best views of the Yosemite Falls and of Half Dome. Well worth the effort! Why is it named Oh My Gosh Rock? Because that's what you say when you're up there and leaning over the railing that is over 600 feet above the ground.

Vernal Falls is 317 feet high. It is on the Merced River in Yosemite. It is about a 2 mile walk from Curry Village. There are about 700 granite steps along the trail to the falls. It is an uphill hike, but one of the best hikes in the valley. The cool spray from the "Mist Trail" is very refreshing during the hotter summer months. The cliff, or step, that the water pours off of was created by glaciers. There is a steep metal stairway on the right side that you can climb to get to the top of the falls. When you get there, remember that the metal stairway was once an old wooden ladder that people used to climb to the top!

Question 8: What created the steep cliff in this picture?

Bridalveil Falls is 620 feet high. Its source is Bridalveil Creek. It is the first waterfall you see when you drive into Yosemite. Its Indian name is Pohono, which means "puffing wind". The pointed rock to its right is called the Leaning Tower.

Cathedral Rocks are a series of 3 huge rocks. They are often mistaken for the Three Brothers. The Cathedral Spires are seen in the upper left portion of the photo. They look like rabbit ears. Cathedral Rocks are located directly across the valley from El Capitan. The rocks are individually named also, known as Lower Cathedral Rock, Middle Cathedral Rock, and Upper Cathedral Rock (duh). The notch between Lower and Middle is called the "gunsight" notch, because it looks like the site on a gun.

The Three Brothers are often confused with Cathedral Rocks. They are located on the same side of the valley that El Capitan is on. The highest of them is called Eagle Peak. They were named after the 3 sons of Chief Tenaya, the last chief of the Ahwahnichi (a tribe of Miwok Indians who lived in Yosemite Valley). They were murdered by white soldiers who were rounding up the Indians to rid the valley of them. After the capture of the remaining Indians, they were placed on and Indian reservation in the Central Valley. Later, they were allowed to return to their mountain home. However, there were more conflicts between the Ahwahnichi and the miners and finally what was left of the Ahwahnichi journeyed over the passes to join the Mono Indians to avoid further violence. But never again were they together again as a distinct group in Yosemite Valley.

Question 9: Who are the 3 Brothers named after?

Liberty Cap is an example of an exfoliating dome. It remotely has the shape of the Liberty Bell. Nevada Falls is just below it and to the right. In winter it is just a trickle. Mt. Broderick is the peak just to the left (out of picture).

The Royal Arches are beautiful glacier-cut arcs of granite. North Dome is the the rounded dome above, and Washington Column is the steep rock to the right, rising nearly 2,000 feet above the valley floor.

Sentinel Rock stands alone looking out over at the Three Brothers (across the valley). The rock rises nearly 1,500 feet.

 

The valley represents only 6% of the park. Beyond the valley lies the rest of Yosemite National Park. This is a view of Half Dome from Olmstead Point, the gateway to Tuolumne Meadows and the High Sierra. Olmstead Point is named after Frederick Olmstead, a popular landscape architect who was hired to develop and protect the park. He also designed New York City's Central Park. The tallest mountain in Yosemite is found here, Mt. Lyell, which has an elevation of 13,114 feet. There are also numerous exfoliating domes. Fairview Dome is the largest and has a steep face over 1,000 high. Domes are relatively rare in the world, and more are found in Yosemite than anywhere else.

Question 10: What is the tallest mountain in Yosemite?

Tuolumne Meadows is the second most popular part of Yosemite to visit. It lies at around 8,600 feet above sea level. It is long and skinny, about 12 miles long and at most a half of a mile across. Because it is higher, it is colder and gets more snow than the valley. The meadows were once used by sheepherders to graze their flocks. The "High Sierra" is also filled with snow capped peaks and mountain lakes, one of the reasons it is so popular with backpackers and fishermen. Lembert Dome can be seen in the center of the photo, surrounded by Tuolumne Meadows. The morning frost is still clinging to the meadow grass.

 

Cathedral Peak was first climbed by John Muir, back in 1869. He said that the mountain reminded him of a large cathedral. Being in the mountains brought Muir closer to God. "No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite," he wrote. It was "... the grandest of all the special temples of Nature." John Muir used to herd sheep through the meadows of Tuolumne until he realized that they were destroying the meadows. Afterwards, he became Yosemite's voice, a protector and advocate for the preservation of the park. He was also the first to come up with the idea that Yosemite was carved out by glaciers. Eventually, he convinced President Theodore Roosevelt to visit Yosemite in 1903. During his visit, Roosevelt saw the wonders of the park and decided to expand its borders to protect even more of the wilderness from logging and development. The park was also placed under federal jurisdiction. John Muir was the original founder of the Sierra Club and was one of the first environmentalist. During a time in history when man was trying to tame and develop the wilderness, he made the nation stop and consider whether there might be a greater value in preserving some landscapes for their beauty. This was a significant achievement in itself.

Question 11: What early environmentalist fist climbed Cathedral Peak? What places in your area need protection? How can we follow his example?

Every winter, the Sierra Nevada receives upwards of 100 inches of snow. After the snow begins to melt, it runs down creeks and flows into mountain lakes like Cathedral Lake, pictured above. Tressider Peak's reflection can be seen in the calm water. Fishermen like to fish for trout in such lakes. The Peak was named after Donald and Mary Tressider. They ran Camp Curry and built the dining hall and cafeteria where you will eat most of your meals. They also built the famous Ahwahnee Hotel.

The Cathedral Range is in the heart of the Yosemite high country. It is a popular destination for backpackers, fishermen, and especially rock climbers. Here, a climber stands on top of Echo Peak. Cathedral Peak is in the background.

Mount Hoffman is the geographical center of Yosemite National Park. From its summit, you can see down into the valley and you get a 360 degree view of the entire park.

Early summer in the back country often times means snow. While the rest of California is at the beach, it is very possible to still be able to use cross country skis or snowshoes in June in the Sierra. Here, a hiker crosses a swollen stream below Unicorn Peak after a 4 mile hike in snowshoes. The weather can change quickly in the Sierra. This morning started out without a cloud. By the end of the day it was pouring rain and there was thunder and lightning. Storms can develop in a matter of hours, so be prepared for anything.

Question 12: Where does the water in the river mostly come from (hint... it is white) and in what season do you think Yosemite's waterfalls are largest?

This is a yellow bellied marmot. The marmot is the biggest member of the squirrel family. It actually looks like a big fat squirrel. It likes to lounge around on warm rocks all day. Marmots make a loud chirp noise when danger approaches and all nearby animals will run for cover at this warning. They are curious and will eat through your backpack in search for food if it is left unattended. You will only find them in the higher elevations.

Question 13: The marmot is related to what other animal?

Climbers come from all around the world to climb Half Dome's Northwest Face. The Northwest Face is the 2,000 foot vertical side of Half Dome. Half Dome is the most recognizable landmark in Yosemite, and the most photographed. Here, Mr. Slater inches his way across "Thank God Ledge" just below the summit. Climbers often spend several nights sleeping on such ledges and a climb can take several days. Climbers must bring all of their water, food, clothes, and sleeping bags up with them in a haul bag. This bag, called the "pig", often weighs 100 pounds or more. A climb of this type is called a Big Wall Aid Climb.

Almost half way up Half Dome's Northwest Face, Mr. Slater plays a hand of cards before he retires for the night. A climber always sleeps with their harness and rope on just in case they have a bad dream and roll off of the ledge. The "pig" or haul bag is the white bag in the background. All the climbing gear needed for the climb has been attached to the wall with caribiners and slings.

After you climb it, the best way off of the Lost Arrow Spire is to make the "Tyrolean Traverse". It is 2,000 feet above the valley floor. Climbers inch their way across a climbing rope (about as thick as your middle finger) and back up to the rim of Yosemite Point. If you look closely you can see a car on the road in the bottom center of the photo. The spire was first climbed in the 1940's. Yosemite is the most popular climbing destination is the world and it has an extensive history. Every first ascent of a climb made in the valley is recorded. They record the names and dates of each first ascent.

This climber is on top of Eichorn Pinnacle, first climbed by Jules Eichorn back in the 1930s. The formation looks like a hand and finger pointing up towards heaven. This pinnacle is attached to the side of Cathedral Peak in Toulumne Meadows.

The climbs in Yosemite Valley are done on steep cliffs, like El Capitan or Half Dome. But the climbs in the high country are usually done on the sides of mountains or peaks and are less steep. But the scenery is magnificent.

Tuolumne Meadows is almost as famous as the Yosemite Valley when it comes to climbing. It is famous for its slick polished "domes". The domes were carved and polished by glaciers. Climbers often find themselves on low angled slopes that are as smooth as glass, carefully balancing on edges about as wide as a nickel. The climber on the bottom is holding the rope of the "leader" as she climbs up Stately Pleasure Dome. Tenaya Lake is seen sparkling below.Enter your text here...